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Wave definition, types of waves, orbital waves
Why study waves?
Wave parts, anatomy of a wave
R=D/T or C=L/T, Celerity
Wind generated waves, H= WfD
Wave types: Sea, Swell and Surf
Water motion in waves
Wave base, L/2
Deep water waves, intermediate and shallow water waves
DWW is a wave in water >L/2, SWW is a wave in water < or = to L/2
Waves as they approach the shore: refraction, diffraction and reflection
Canyon divergence and headland convergence
Sea caves, arches and sea stacks
Wave generated currents: longshore and rip
Standing waves: nodes and antinodes, seiches
Catostrophic waves: storm surges and tsunamis
Mega tsunamis: know H, L and P of a typical seismic sea wave!
Internal waves